Yucca's homeland is Central America, Mexico, the south of the United States. It would seem that such a thermophilic plant would not grow in the harsh Russian climate. But planting garden yucca and caring for it have already become familiar to domestic lovers of exotic and landscape designers who have appreciated the high decorative properties of the culture. Oddly enough, some species turned out to be quite resistant to the conditions of Russia, and winter with minimal shelter or even without it.
Garden yucca and its medicinal properties
Actually, yucca is called garden yucca, which can be grown on personal plots. This is not one of more than 30 existing species, but simply a statement of the fact that a plant can withstand winter outdoors.
Description of yucca
Yucca is an evergreen plant belonging to the Agave family, originating from Central America. There are more than 30 species, among which there are rosette and tree species.
Hard xiphoid leaves, gray or green, grow in length from 25 to 100 cm, width 1-8 cm. Depending on the type, they are collected in a rosette or arranged in bunches at the tops of the trunks. The edge of the sheet plate can be smooth, serrated, covered with threads. The tips are pointed, sometimes they turn into a rather large thorn; in different species, the leaves can be straight and drooping.
The flowers of the plant are collected in a panicle with a height of 50 to 250 cm. Each one contains up to 300 white, cream, greenish-cream, yellow buds. The shape of the flowers is bell-shaped or cupped, the size is up to 7 cm, the smell is strong, pleasant. Each bud hangs on a small stem.
The fruit of the plant is a capsule or fleshy berry, edible in some species. In Russian conditions, it is almost impossible to obtain seeds.
Yucca is used as a medicinal plant in folk and official medicine. It is unusual for us to make decoctions or lotions from its leaves, nevertheless, the healing effect of the culture has been scientifically proven. Of the contraindications, one can only name individual intolerance and urolithiasis or cholelithiasis, in which one should consult a doctor before taking medications.
The healing properties of yucca:
- the leaves are used for the manufacture of hormonal preparations due to the presence of steroid saponins and aglycones in them;
- saponin is also used for arthritis tablets;
- extracts from leaves are used in the treatment of atherosclerosis, inflammatory processes, normalization of metabolic processes;
- Yucca preparations treat allergies;
- the flower extract contains selenium, zinc, carbohydrates;
- the roots are rich in saponins, folic and pantothenic acid, vitamins E, K, riboflavin, niacin, thiamine, microelements.
The chemical composition of the plant allows it to be used to treat a wider range of diseases than is used by official medicine:
- saponin steroids have antifungal and anti-edema properties, lower cholesterol;
- antioxidants neutralize the action of free radicals and other harmful substances;
- mucus, due to its enveloping properties, is used in the treatment of gastrointestinal diseases;
- anthraquinones are astringent and laxative.
Yucca flowers taste like artichokes, they are part of exotic salads and side dishes. They are put into omelets and soups.
You can often find the statement that in Latin America the yucca root is widely used, which is boiled for a long time, and is sold almost on every corner. This is not true. People who are far from exotic cuisine are confused by the consonance of the names yucca and yuca. The latter is nothing more than edible cassava, belonging to the Euphorbia family, as the inhabitants of Central America call it.
In the United States, yucca is grown as a technical plant, making strong fibers from it for the production of wear-resistant jeans, ropes, burlap, fishing tackle, and paper. A natural red dye is isolated from the root.
Yucca in landscape design
We use garden yucca in landscape design without much imagination. Of course, this plant already looks exotic in flower beds, rockeries, slides, in landscape groups and as a tapeworm. Meanwhile, in America, with the participation of those species that can grow in our country, they create simply fantastic compositions.
Yucca can grow where there is no watering or the soil is so poor that other crops cannot withstand or lose their decorative effect. It is important that the soil is not clayey or overcast, and the plant has enough sun, otherwise it will rarely bloom.
Types of garden yucca
Yucca can be grown as a houseplant. With age, many species reach such a size that it becomes impossible to keep them in a city apartment; a greenhouse or a spacious winter garden is needed. Treelike plants are especially popular.
Garden yucca usually forms a rosette that is located at ground level and can be sheltered for the winter if necessary. In the southernmost regions, where even in winter temperatures rarely drop below 0⁰C, many species can be grown. But in the rest of the territory, only Yucca Glorious, Sizuya, and most often Filamentous are planted.
Under natural conditions, Yucca filamentosa grows in the east and southeast of the United States. It is located on sandy or stony dry lands adjacent to the coast, extends to fields and roadsides, and other places open to the sun.
Filamentous yucca is an evergreen perennial stemless shrub. Basal rosette consists of dense linear-lanceolate bluish-green leaves 30-90 cm long, up to 4 cm wide, with a pointed tip. Threads hang along the edges of the plate, from which the plant got its name.
The flowers are drooping, white, with a yellowish or greenish tinge, 5-8 cm long, collected in panicles from 1 m high and more. Some older specimens boast a 2 m peduncle with numerous lateral branches. The fruit is an oval box up to 5 cm long with small seeds (6 mm) of black color.
In Russia, it is Yucca Filamenta that is most often grown, planting and caring for which is not difficult, and allows you to leave the plant without shelter in the Middle Lane.
There is a variegated form of variegate with yellow or white longitudinal stripes. Two varieties have become widespread:
- Yucca Filamenta Color Guard is distinguished by yellow leaves up to 70 cm in size, bordered by a green stripe. White flowers are large, about 6 cm, collected in a panicle up to 120 cm high. Yucca Filamentous Color Guard grows much slower than the original form, but this is typical for all variegated plants.
- Yucca Filamentous Bright Edge is more modest in size, but it grows faster than the variety described above, gives many offspring. The leaves are blue-green, with a wide yellow border, often mixed with pink and crimson shades. The peduncle reaches a height of 90 cm.
There is one more taxon - Yucca flaccida, which is considered by some taxonomists to be a subspecies of Filamenta, and not an independent species. The plants are very similar, only the first is slightly lower, the leaves are softer and weak, often hanging under their own weight.
Yucca the Glorious
The most thermophilic species grown in Russia is Yucca gloriosa. This evergreen plant at a young age forms a basal rosette of leaves from 36 to 100 cm long, 3.5-6 cm wide.Their color is dark green with a bluish tinge, the edge is slightly wavy, serrate at the base, with a yellow-brown edging. The leaf is narrowed at the ends, wide in the middle, ends with a thorn.
With age, Yucca Slavnaya forms a trunk, which under natural conditions in the southeastern United States can reach 5 m.But more often it grows up to 1.5-2.5 m, in household plots, you can rarely see a shoot exceeding 1 m.
The older the plant, the higher its loose peduncle - from 60 to 150 cm. The buds are bell-shaped, white, cream or greenish, sometimes with a red-violet border. The fruit is a box 2.5-8 cm, with black seeds 5-8 mm.
There is a variegate form with leaves edged with a light stripe and several varieties common to America, which are extremely rare in Russia.
The homeland of Yucca glauca is Mexico and the eastern United States. This species is an evergreen shrub that forms a basal rosette or trunk up to 40 cm high. Gray-green, 40-70 cm long leaves are thin, drooping, linear, about 0.8-1.2 cm wide. Their edge is whitish, decorated with twisted threads.
Peduncle 1-2 m high, according to reviews, in natural conditions, it can reach 3 m.Buds are white, greenish or yellow, up to 7 cm in size.Inflorescences can be highly branched, it is they, and not leaves of different colors, that served as a reason for breeding various varieties.
A box 5-9 cm long contains black oval seeds up to 9-12 mm.
Planting yucca garden
Although yucca is an undemanding and persistent plant, it grows in one place for up to 20 years and does not like transplants. Therefore, the choice of the site must be taken seriously. Garden yucca is planted in the sun, otherwise it will bloom rarely, and the bush will become loose, stretch out and lose its decorative effect. In varieties with variegated leaves, light stripes will disappear.
On the one hand, yucca is undemanding to soils, it can grow on sandstones or rocky poor soils. On the other hand, dense earth is contraindicated for it, and in a place that is constantly suffering from excess moisture, the plant will simply die.
The yucca must be protected from the wind. It can break a tall, strong, but overloaded peduncle. In winter, a cold wind coupled with a sunny spot will damage the leaves, especially if the plant is not covered.
It is best to place the yucca in a rockery or on a gentle slope - this will prevent roots from sticking and increase the outflow of water after irrigation or rain.
Planting time of yucca garden
Yucca is planted in spring, after even at night the temperature stops dropping below 10⁰ C. Usually this does not happen until May. Then the plant will have time to take root before the cold weather.
Planting yucca in the open ground in autumn is allowed only in the southern regions, where freezing temperatures do not give way to stable frosts for a long time. But earthworks should be carried out as early as possible, as soon as the heat subsides - at the end of August or September. The plant takes root for a long time.
The main requirement for growing yucca in the open field to the soil is permeability, which ensures the outflow of moisture and oxygen access to the root system. Loose soil containing a large amount of sand or stones may not be improved.
On dense or blocking soils, they dig a hole with a diameter of at least a meter and a depth of more than 50 cm. They completely change the soil there. A fertile soil layer is mixed with sand, brick chips, fine gravel. If the top layer is too thin, salty, or cannot be used for another reason, it is replaced with rotted compost, sod soil or a mixture of humus and peat. Drainage from broken brick, expanded clay or gravel is laid on the bottom and covered with sand.
The acidic soil is brought in accordance with the requirements of the plant by adding chalk or lime. In this case, it is better not to use dolomite flour - it has the property of improving soil fertility, which yucca does not need at all.
Preparation of planting material
Before planting in the ground, all dried or damaged leaves are removed from the plant. The root is examined and the rotted or broken areas are excised.
Important! It is best to work with leather gloves, as the edges of the leaves can injure your hands.
If the yucca was dug out in advance, it is soaked for at least 6 hours, adding root or other growth stimulant to the water. When buying a container plant, you should ask where it was kept. If outside, you can water and plant the next day.
A plant standing indoors must first be hardened by exposing it to fresh air during the day. At first, the stay on the street lasts 1-2 hours, then gradually the time increases to 6-8 hours. Only then can the plant be planted.
Planting yucca in open ground
To facilitate outdoor care, planting yucca should be carried out according to all the rules. The main ones are:
- do not deepen the root collar;
- the planting hole should be about 2 times larger than the size of the plant root;
- on dense blocking soils, it is imperative to arrange a drainage layer with a thickness of at least 10 cm.
A plant is installed in the center of the prepared planting pit, the roots are carefully spread, covered with soil or prepared soil mixture, squeezed and watered abundantly. Check the position of the root collar and mulch with dry peat. To decorate the soil under the yucca, you cannot use decorative powders - they compact the soil and limit the access of oxygen to the roots.
Yucca garden care and transplant
If the place is chosen correctly, and the root collar is not buried during planting, it is easy to care for the plant. It is important not to overdo it here, the culture is unpretentious even for the conditions of Russia, excessive care can only harm it.
Immediately after planting, the plant is watered abundantly, and the ground is loosened every other day. Moistening should be carried out as the soil dries out so that the root does not begin to rot.
A rooted plant needs occasional watering, the soil must completely dry out between wetting. Do not allow water to enter the outlet - if this happens, the top may rot and require trimming. If you do not notice the problem in time, the yucca will die. Therefore, watering should be done only at the root of the plant.
To prevent rains from causing rot, the soil must be loosened. In hot weather, the plant actively loses moisture, but it still exists in the soil, but does not have time to enter the vegetative organs. This happens especially often if the yucca has grown and covered the soil from drying out with leaves. The plant should be sprayed with warm water, being careful not to get moisture into the center of the outlet.
How to feed garden yucca
It should be noted right away that the plant does not like organic fertilizing. Green fertilizers, infusions of mullein, bird droppings and herbs should be excluded from the “diet”. In general, you need to feed the plant carefully. If you overdo it, the leaves will grow large, juicy, there will be no flowering, or the panicle will grow small. In addition, the winter hardiness of the yucca will decrease.
A young plant must be fed after planting or transplanting, but only when new leaves appear. It is best to use fertilizer for indoor succulents. As a last resort, you can take a complex with a low nitrogen content, and dilute it 2 times. Depending on the size of the plant, from 1 to 5 liters are poured under the root. The first feeding is given in May, the second - after the end of flowering.
How to prune garden yucca
Pruning is an important consideration when caring for a yucca flower outdoors.
In early spring, when the plant is not in the active growing season, the root rosette is cleaned of old, dried leaves. They are neatly cut off or cut off, wearing gloves, so as not to injure your hands on sharp edges.
Important! In autumn, yucca is not cleaned just because old leaves help it overwinter, thickening the planting and protecting it from frost.
The dried peduncle is removed in the fall as low as possible, but so as not to injure the green leaves of the plant. To do this, use a pruner, and, if necessary, a garden saw.
Pruning old or damaged yucca
Pruning can rejuvenate old yucca.This is easy to do with only stem-forming species, not rosette species. Yucca Slavnaya grows it at an age when it can winter outdoors only in the southernmost regions. In other regions, the plant cannot be insulated so that it does not freeze due to its size. Gray does not always form the trunk. Filamentous does not form it at all.
But all really old yuccas, whose age is approaching 15-20 years, after the annual removal of old leaves, rise above the ground, ugly tilting the rosette due to the exposed lower part of the plant. Perhaps, from a biological point of view, this cannot be called a trunk or a shoot, but it looks very similar. This is where you need to cut:
- to rejuvenate an old plant;
- to save a frozen yucca or one whose top has begun to rot;
- in order to return decorativeness to a plant bent to the side.
Yucca Glorious or Sizuyu, which has formed a small trunk, is easy to cut. So it is better to consider the option when instead of it there is only a short piece of the stem freed from the leaves. This is the problem that domestic gardeners most often face. Plant pruning is done in the following sequence:
- 2-3 days before the operation, the yucca is watered.
- A sharp knife is sterilized.
- Cut the "trunk" of the plant so that the wound surface is flat, clean and perpendicular to the direction of growth. Torn edges, splitting shoots or peeling off the bark are not allowed. The hand must be firm, the movements must be confident and quick.
- The wound surface is sprinkled with crushed activated carbon, allowed to dry until callus is formed, and treated with garden varnish.
Here a logical question arises: where to make a cut? If the top of the plant is frozen or rotted, it is not needed in any case. Cut as high as possible, so as to remove all the affected tissue and a little healthy.
When the yucca is rejuvenated, and they want to leave both the old plant and the new one to root, the height of the "stem" is estimated. The long one is divided approximately in half. The lower part is treated as described above, the upper part is left to dry for 2-3 days, then planted in sand, perlite or peat-sand mixture using growth hormone.
But it happens that the process is very short. If the top of the plant is rotten or affected by frost, there is nothing to think about. It is removed by capturing a portion of healthy tissue and discarded. When the growth point is healthy, and the shoot is short, there is a reason to think, why torment the plant? Is it really old and needs pruning? Wouldn't it be better to just leave the yucca alone?
Important! Yucca has one growth point, which does not resume after removal. But on the trimmed stem, several new ones are formed. In weak plants, 1-2 are left, the rest are broken out. Up to 4 outlets can be formed on strong ones - more culture simply cannot provide water and nutrients.
After pruning, the old yucca not only forms several tops, but daughter rosettes are actively growing.
When to transplant garden yucca
The best time to transplant a yucca varies by region. The culture does not like to be disturbed by its roots and for a long time takes root in a new place. Therefore, the plant must be given time to adapt. In the south, the transplant is done in the fall, and as early as possible, as soon as the heat subsides. If the operation is performed in the spring, the sudden rise in temperature can destroy the plant. In temperate and cool climates, on the contrary, it is undesirable to transplant yucca in the fall. It is moved to another location in the spring to allow time for rooting.
Plant transplantation is most easily tolerated at the age of three years. Therefore, if it became clear that the place for the yucca was chosen unsuccessfully or it could not be there for another reason, you need to move the bush as early as possible.
The roots of the plant can spread up to 60-70 cm, the earthen lump must be dug as large as possible, this will minimize damage. In order not to shake off the soil when moving, the yucca intended for transplantation is laid on burlap, tarpaulin or other material. Transfer gently. They plant the plant in a prepared hole, trying not to damage the earthen lump, to the same depth as in the old place. Watering, mulching.
Transplanting root suckers or the entire yucca colony will be discussed in the "Reproduction" section.
How yucca winters
In the southern regions, the well-rooted Yucca Filamenta winters without any shelter. In the Middle Lane, it requires light insulation only for the first 3 years. As we move to the North and beyond the Urals, the shelter for the plant is made more and more serious.
Yucca Sizaya does not withstand long-term frosts below -20⁰ С. Moreover, the growth point suffers first of all. This must be taken into account when constructing a shelter and based on their own climatic conditions. For example, in the conditions of the Moscow region, without shelter, some of the leaves will freeze in the yucca, and it will take all of May and part of June to restore them. Therefore, the plant will not bloom.
Yucca Slavnaya species hibernates without problems in the southernmost regions. In the rest, it must be carefully covered or dug up and transferred to the room. This is easy to do with a young plant, but as it grows up, the yucca grows a stem, it becomes problematic to warm and move it.
Important! In the Middle Lane, yucca suffers more not from frost, but from damping, soaking, which can lead to rot, and cold winds.
Preparing yucca for winter
If filamentous yucca was planted in the "right" place - sheltered from the wind, on permeable, non-locking soil or on a hill, the southerners do not need to prepare it for winter. Other species should be taken care of as described below.
In cool regions, it makes sense at the end of the growing season - in the first half of September or the last decade of August, to feed the plant with phosphorus-potassium fertilizers. They facilitate wintering and increase frost resistance. On the sheet, you should treat the yucca with epin, which activates its own protective properties.
It is better not to remove dead and damaged leaves in autumn - they will serve as additional protection of the plant from frost. If the peduncle was not cut off in time, it must be removed.
How to cover a yucca for the winter
The more frosts are typical for the region, the more severe the winter shelter of the yucca should be. The place where the garden plant is planted also matters. The windy area does not suit the yucca at all, but if it is placed there, at least a light shelter will have to be made even in the south.
Without waiting for the first frost, yucca leaves are collected in a bunch and wrapped with a strong rope from top to bottom. You cannot use wire or synthetic material. The lower leaves of the plant are left to lie on the ground and sprinkled with dry leaves of fruit trees, and then pressed with wooden slats.
You can cover the soil with a layer of earth of 15-20 cm, but this will require a lot of effort both in the fall and in the spring when opening the yucca. When covering the lower part of the plant with soil, all the leaves should be raised up.
Important! Shelter should be carried out in dry weather, if the leaves are wet, there will be no benefit from it. Rot may appear, which will destroy the plant faster than frost.
Young yucca under the age of three years and thermophilic species may not be enough of an easy shelter even in the south and in the Middle Belt. Those who decide to plant a crop in a windy area also need to carefully prepare the plant for winter. In the North and beyond the Urals, the shelter should be all the more capital.
First, a light shelter is prepared for the plant, then it is protected with a wooden box without a bottom. The yucca should fit freely in it, neither tilt nor twist the leaves raised upward. If necessary, the shelter is reinforced with an insulating material, for example, lutrastil or spandbond. A layer of fallen leaves is poured around and covered with a film, which is fixed with tape.
In the spring (mid-March), the yucca is opened by first removing the box and wrapping the bush with sacking or lutrastil. Around the middle of April, the shelter is completely removed, and after a week the leaves are untied and the plant is cleaned.
Yucca reproduces well vegetatively. This is the safest and easiest way, besides, the plant gives many lateral shoots.
How to propagate yucca garden shoots
Outdoors, yucca forms a bush. Over time, it becomes overgrown with daughter outlets, which can be at some distance from the mother plant or go out with it from almost the same place.
This leads to the following:
- the bush thickens;
- the area of plant nutrition decreases;
- interlacing of roots impairs the permeability of the soil.
As a result:
- yucca weakens and becomes shallow;
- roots can rot;
- decorativeness decreases;
- the plant may not have enough resources to bloom.
Once every 3-4 years, daughter outlets must be removed. The easiest way is to dig up shoots that are no less than 15-20 cm from the mother bush. If everything is done carefully, the root system of an adult yucca will be minimally injured. The recommended planting density is 3-5 plants per sq. m.
The shoots can be planted in spring or autumn. Each time has its own advantages and disadvantages. If you plant the yucca in the spring, it will better endure the previous winter thanks to the thickened planting. But the root can be injured so much that the adult plant will not have time to restore it, and will miss flowering.
Here, it is better to proceed from considerations of the safety of the yucca, and not focus on decorative properties. It is better not to see flowers for one season than to lose the plant completely, perhaps even more than one.
Important! In the south, the shoots are planted in the fall, in the Central lane and in the North - in the spring.
Reproduction of yucca garden by dividing the bush
How to plant garden yucca was described in the previous paragraph. Why describe the division of the bush separately? The fact is that some of the daughter outlets fit tightly to the mother plant. They can be separated only by digging the bush completely.
It happens that the old yucca even dries up completely after flowering, since it has expended all its strength on the formation of buds. And a weakened plant cannot replenish the supply of nutrients, not withstanding competition with young shoots. This serves as a signal for the division of the bush.
In this case, dig up the yucca completely, along with the daughter sockets. They are separated with a sharp, sterile knife, and seated in a suitable place. You need to dig carefully and deeply - after all, the root of only one plant extends to 60-70 cm, and there are several of them in an overgrown bush.
Important! Places of cuts before planting are sprinkled with crushed activated carbon and dried a little.
Otherwise, the division is no different from the reproduction and planting of yucca with garden shoots.
Garden yucca can be propagated by root cuttings. Parts of the stem are not used, since the plant simply does not have it. Even Yucca Sizaya does not always form a short stem, only at an “advanced” age. Yes, and cutting it is inconvenient - it is easy to make a mistake and destroy the plant, the operation is carried out only to save a valuable specimen, it is propagated by daughter sockets. After the formation of the trunk, Yucca Glorious usually does not hibernate in the ground, and becomes a room culture, and not a garden culture.
The plant simply propagates by root cuttings. It is impossible to dig them on purpose - you can ruin the yucca, but when planting offspring or dividing a bush, many "extra" pieces of root remain. Instead of throwing them away, you need to carefully examine them, choose those that have dormant buds.
Important! Cuttings can only be planted in the spring, in the fall the dormant period begins and they will simply disappear.
Choose healthy, strong roots, cut into cuttings 5-10 cm long so that each has a growth point. The section is treated with crushed activated carbon mixed with a crushed heteroauxin tablet.
The wound surface is allowed to tighten and planted in a peat-sand mixture or perlite. To do this, the cuttings are laid out on a wet substrate, pointing up the sleeping kidney, pressed a little, and sprinkled with a thin layer of soil. The surface is slightly sprayed daily with warm water from a household spray bottle.
The cuttings will start to grow in 2-3 weeks. At the end of the season, young plants are separated from each other and planted in a permanent place.
This is the most difficult and unreliable way of yucca breeding. If it is possible to get a daughter outlet, it is better not to mess with the seedlings. It is impossible to collect your own seeds, since pollination is carried out exclusively by butterflies that live only in the homeland of the plant. And no one can vouch for the quality of purchased planting material.
Nevertheless, the seeds can be sown in light soil, covered with foil and placed in a warm place. The first 10 days, the soil must be regularly moistened, the planting must be aired. After the emergence of seedlings, they are dived into separate cups. Young plants are planted in open ground after 2 years.
Flowering yucca garden
Garden yucca leaves are beautiful on their own, but the flowering is simply amazing. Tall panicles, sometimes reaching 2.5 m, well branched and dotted with large white, yellowish or cream bells up to 6-7 cm in size, look amazing. Flowers are pollinated only by moths of the Yucca moth (Tegeticula yucasella), their habitat coincides with the plant.
When garden yucca blooms
Young plants take about 3 years to take root. Only then can the yucca bloom. At the end of June (in the north - later) a peduncle appears. It grows very quickly, reaching 1-2.5 m and revealing white, yellow or cream bells hanging on a thin stem.
Flowering lasts about a month and is accompanied by a strong pleasant scent. Then the panicle begins to dry out and can be cut off.
Usually yucca blooms 3-4 years after planting, but it may linger and discard the first panicle after 5, even 7 years.
Important! Occasionally, the first peduncle appears the next year after the plant is placed on the site. It needs to be pruned, since the yucca probably did not have time to take root. This does not apply to container grown specimens.
Why garden yucca does not bloom
If the yucca does not bloom for a long time, or does not throw out a panicle every year, there is a reason to think about the reasons. This could be:
- improper planting, namely excessive deepening, then the plant not only does not bloom, but as a whole looks sick;
- lack of light - in partial shade, yucca blooms, but not annually, variegated forms especially suffer from this;
- frost damage - the plant needs time to recover, and it may miss flowering;
- lack of nutrients - this rarely happens, only if a huge bush has grown with a large number of daughter outlets, or on completely depleted poor soils.
If the yucca has rotted from overflow or planting on heavy wet soils, you need to think not about flowering, but about saving the plant.
Diseases and pests
Yucca rarely gets sick, but can be affected by pests. Most problems arise from buried planting, dense blocking soil, or lack of sunlight.
To make the yucca look beautiful, you need to find the cause of the trouble and eliminate it, you may need to transplant a plant:
- Brown spots appeared on the leaves - dry air, lack of moisture, cold strong wind.
- Light spots - sunburn.
- Falling leaves - the consequences of plant transplantation, or hypothermia.
- The lower leaves of the garden yucca turn yellow - this is a natural process, if not widespread.
- Decay of the growth point - improper planting, dense soil, overflow.
- Brown spots on the leaves have yellowish convex edges - anthracnose. Over time, the marks fade. The affected leaves are removed and destroyed, the yucca is treated with an appropriate fungicide. Watering is limited.
Among the pests, the plant is most annoyed by:
- Snails and slugs. It is necessary to reduce the watering of the plant, as these pests love damp places. Sprinkle soil with metaldehyde insecticide.
Important! Some gardeners complain that the drug does not work. If you follow the instructions, the result is 100%. There is no need to save and everything will be fine.
- The leaves of the plant are covered with convex brownish outgrowths, similar to oblong ovals about 2 mm long. If it is difficult to clean them off with a fingernail, then this is a shield. At the initial stage, you can try to treat the plant with insecticides, for example, Angio or Calypso. With a strong infection, it is almost impossible to fight the scabbard on the yucca - it hides at the base of the outlet. It may be necessary to destroy not only the affected bush, but also the neighboring ones. It is good that the scale insect rarely affects the garden yucca.
- When overflowing, fluffy white lumps may appear at the base of the leaves - this is a mealybug. Plants are treated with insecticide (from pests) and fungicide (from rot, which usually accompany waterlogging). Reduce watering, remove dried leaves. If necessary, thin out the landing.
Other pests can also affect yucca, this happens infrequently and is treated by spraying with appropriate insecticides.
Important! A healthy, properly planted plant rarely gets sick and is affected by pests.
Planting garden yucca and caring for it does not present any difficulties even in cool climates. The main thing is to choose the right place and not "stifle" the plant with your care - watering and feeding.